21 Berners Street
Fitzrovia, London
Tel: 020 7323 9123 or check availability and book online
Goodge Street 0.2 miles

Situated opposite the Sanderson Hotel, Latium serves modern cuisine from the Lazio region of Italy. Simple decor but excellent service and an interesting wine list.

© Latium © Latium « 1 of 2 photos »

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Jan Moir's review of Latium (The Telegraph)

Latium reviews

I'll tell it straight: I am absolutely partial to this place!

Yesterday night it was the best ever meal I had there so far. The evening kicks off with a tray with a mini suppli' (ball of cooked rice, breaded and deep fried), mini calzone (sort of rounded dough dumpling filled with parma ham and mozzarella cheese, then baked) and a savoury version of a Danish pastry with tomato sauce in place of raisins, plus an assortment of olives, to put you in a good mood.

Then I got the signature dish, the four fish raviolis, that is four parcels of pasta of different colours (from the black of the squid juice ravioli to the red tomato one) filled with different fish: sublime!

But what came next was heavenly: fillets of red mullet wrapped in a large and thin leaf (was it spinach?) and a bit of extra thin smoked ham, served on a bed of crushed potatoes and accompanied by a `carciofo alla giudia', i.e. the most tender deep fried artichoke, opened like a flower.

This is a specialty that you can only savour in a couple of restaurants in Rome's Jewish quarter ("giudia" means Jewish), until Latium put it on its menu, that is.

All the above accompanied by an excellent dry white from Abruzzi (Pecorino, and no, it has nothing to do with the cheese).

To finish off, a dessert of buffalo ricotta with candied artichokes... candied artichokes, is this not genius?

By the time the complimentary petit fours arrived I had absolutely no room to accommodate the cantucci, chocolate truffles, and so on and so forth.

In all my time in London (some thirteen years or so), I have pointedly refused to go to pretentious, overpriced restaurants, where I always get upset at the thought that the simple dishes which make the bulk of Italian cuisine, so based on ingredients, could be fixed at home at a fraction of the price. This is not the case for Latium, a little gem.

Useful review? 1
 by addict, 08 Apr 2006
Very good food and super service. Slightly plain decor, but that didn't bother us. One of those restaurants that don't get as much publicity as some of the others in lists like this, but very deserving of your custom!

Useful review?
 by mr_benn (20 reviews), 03 Dec 2004
Great food, good advice on the wide selection of Italian wines and very friendly service from lovely staff. Very handy restaurant after meeting for drinks in the Sanderson, which is just across the road.

Useful review?
 by crimson (32 reviews), 25 Sep 2004

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