Reviews by Enid A. Lame

Tom Aikens (Restaurant)
08 July 2005

This is serious food. Fabulous amuse, and a surprise soup course served in a little milk bottle with a straw that proved to be both heavenly and healthful. The imaginative cooking will lead to 3 stars one day. If there's a fault it's that sometimes the plate composition tends toward the manic -- do I really need 10 different preparations of courgettes on a single plate? But even if sometimes a plate lacks a disciplined focus, the creativity and excitement of the kitchen more than makes up for it.

Les Trois Garcons (Restaurant)
08 July 2005

At last the food is as good and imaginative as the decor. The oyster beignets are one of the most heavenly dishes I've ever eaten. And the room is certainly unforgettable. If you want a corporate dinning experience like the Great Eastern Dining Room or the tradition of J Sheekey, this is not the place. But if you like a grand adventure, Les Trois Garcons is the place.